Historical Evolution of Diamond Color Classification

The concept of diamond color evaluation has a rich history dating back centuries. In sixth-century India, diamonds were categorized based on social hierarchy - colorless diamonds were reserved for priests and rulers (Brahmins), while those of lower castes were only permitted to own diamonds with specific colors. Kings, however, could possess diamonds of any color.

As the diamond trade expanded globally, early grading systems emerged but lacked standardization. Various systems used inconsistent nomenclature like I, II, III; A, AA, AAA; and descriptive terms such as “golconda,” “river,” and “blue white.”

The modern standardized approach to diamond color grading was established in 1953 when the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) introduced the comprehensive 4Cs framework (cut, color, clarity, and carat weight). This framework included the now-universal D-to-Z color scale for evaluating diamonds from colorless to light yellow or brown.

Lab-Grown Diamond Color Grading Evolution

For lab-grown diamonds specifically, the journey toward standardized grading has been relatively recent. The first gem-quality lab-created diamonds were analyzed by GIA in 1971, with stones ranging from F to J in color. However, early lab-grown diamonds often exhibited yellow coloration due to nitrogen impurities or contained numerous inclusions.

It wasn’t until 2007 that GIA officially began issuing reports for lab-grown diamonds, marking a significant milestone in their recognition as gemstones. In 2019, following FTC guidance, GIA updated terminology on these reports to read “lab-grown” for clarity.

By 2020, GIA had fully integrated lab-grown diamonds into its grading practices, applying identical quality standards to both mined and lab-created diamonds. Today, lab-grown diamonds receive the same rigorous color assessment as natural diamonds, ensuring consistency across the market.

Diamond Cut and Its Impact on Color Perception

Brilliant Cut vs. Modified Cut: Key Differences

The cut of a diamond plays a critical role in how its color is perceived. Round brilliant cuts, with their 57-58 facets, optimize light reflection and refraction, creating maximum sparkle while minimizing the appearance of any color tint. This exceptional light performance often makes diamonds appear whiter than their actual grade.

Modified cuts, such as emerald, asscher, or cushion modified brilliant, have different facet arrangements that can reveal more of a diamond’s inherent color. Step cuts like emerald and asscher typically show more body color due to their large, open table and fewer light-reflecting facets.

In the case of cushion cuts, there are two main variants:

• Cushion Brilliant: Features larger facets arranged in a star-like pattern, creating broad flashes of light similar to round brilliants
• Cushion Modified Brilliant: Contains additional facets below the girdle, creating a distinctive “crushed ice” appearance with smaller, more numerous sparkles

These principles apply equally to lab-grown diamonds as they do to natural diamonds, as both follow the same optical and physical properties.

Light Interaction and Color Visibility

The way light travels through a diamond fundamentally affects how we perceive its color:

• Brilliant cuts direct light to reflect back through the crown (top), creating maximum brightness and fire. This intensive light return can mask slight color tints by overwhelming them with white light and spectral colors.
• Modified cuts often prioritize other visual effects above pure brilliance. For example:
  • Step cuts emphasize clarity and geometric patterns rather than sparkle
  • Emerald cuts create a “hall of mirrors” effect with their rectangular facets
  • Radiant cuts blend brilliant-cut facets with a modified outline for a unique visual effect
• Facet size and arrangement significantly impact light behavior. Larger facets (as in brilliant cuts) create stronger, more dramatic flashes of light, while modified cuts with additional facets (like cushion modified brilliants) create a more scattered, crushed-ice effect.

For lab-grown diamonds, cut quality has an outsized impact on color appearance. A premium cut can make a G-color lab diamond appear closer to colorless, representing excellent value since lab-grown diamonds are already more affordable than their natural counterparts.

Fancy Color Lab-Grown Diamonds

Creation Methods and Characteristics

Unlike colorless diamonds, fancy colored lab diamonds are intentionally created with specific impurities or treatments to achieve desired hues:

• Blue diamonds: Produced by introducing boron during the HPHT growth process
• Pink and red: Created through a combination of irradiation and annealing treatments
• Yellow: Result from controlled nitrogen concentration during the growing process
• Green: Typically produced through irradiation treatments

The popularity of fancy colored lab diamonds has grown substantially in recent years. Manufacturers have developed specialized techniques to create vibrant hues that are extremely rare in natural diamonds.

GIA analysis has documented significant growth in submissions of fancy colored lab-grown diamonds, particularly those that have undergone multiple treatments to achieve specific colors. For example, creating fancy vivid orangy pink lab diamonds typically involves a combination of HPHT processing, irradiation, and low-temperature annealing.

Grading Systems for Fancy Colors

Fancy colored diamonds—both natural and lab-grown—are evaluated using a different system than the D-to-Z scale used for colorless to light yellow/brown diamonds. The GIA fancy color grading system assesses three key factors:

• Hue: The primary color and any secondary colors present (e.g., purplish pink, orangy yellow)
• Saturation: The intensity of the color, ranging from Faint to Vivid
• Tone: How light or dark the color appears

Lab-grown fancy colored diamonds follow identical grading standards as natural fancy diamonds, ensuring consistent evaluation across the market. The rarity and desirability of specific hues in lab diamonds mirror natural diamond preferences, with saturated pinks, blues, and greens being the most valuable, though at significantly lower price points than their natural counterparts.

Colorless vs. Fancy Color: Value and Applications

Value Considerations

In lab-grown diamonds, color significantly impacts value and consumer choice:

• Colorless (D-F): Command premium prices within the lab-grown market
• Near-colorless (G-J): Offer excellent value as they appear colorless to the naked eye but cost considerably less than D-F grades
• Fancy colors: Present exceptional value compared to their natural counterparts, especially vivid blues and pinks which would be astronomically expensive in natural diamonds

Market data reveals the industry has shifted dramatically toward colorless products. Since 2020, there has been a significant increase in submissions of colorless-grade diamonds (D, E, F) to GIA, likely due to improvements in growth and treatment procedures that satisfy consumer preferences.

Applications in Jewelry Design

Colorless and fancy color lab diamonds serve different purposes in jewelry design:

• Engagement rings: Colorless diamonds remain the traditional choice, with round brilliants and oval cuts being most popular due to their ability to maximize sparkle while minimizing visible color
• Fashion jewelry: Fancy colored lab diamonds are increasingly used for statement pieces, pendants, and designer collections where unique color is desired
• Mixed designs: Growing trend of combining colorless center stones with fancy color accents for distinctive looks

Consumer preferences continue to evolve, with growing appreciation for the unique properties and value proposition of fancy colored lab diamonds, particularly among younger buyers seeking personalized and distinctive jewelry pieces.

The lab-grown diamond market continues evolving rapidly, with several notable trends regarding color:

• Industry analysts project that by 2025, lab-grown diamonds will constitute approximately 20% of all diamonds on the market
• Technological advances have enabled production of larger, higher-quality colorless diamonds, with most submissions to GIA now exceeding 3 carats
• Since 2020, approximately 80% of CVD-grown diamonds submitted to GIA have undergone post-growth processing to improve color
• Sustainability concerns drive increasing interest in lab-grown diamonds across all color categories
• Customization and personalization are growing trends, with consumers seeking unique fancy colors or specific color combinations
• The emergence of large (≥4 carat) lab-grown diamonds has created new market segments, with most falling in the E-color range

These trends indicate a maturing market with increasing sophistication in both production capabilities and consumer preferences. As technology continues advancing, we can expect further innovations in color treatment and enhancement techniques, potentially leading to even more vibrant and stable fancy colors while maintaining competitive pricing.

Diamond color in lab-grown diamonds represents a fascinating intersection of technological innovation, consumer preferences, and traditional gemological standards. From the historical evolution of color grading to the cutting-edge techniques used to create fancy colors, the lab-grown diamond industry continues to expand the possibilities for diamond jewelry.

Whether selecting a colorless diamond for its traditional elegance or a vibrant fancy color for its unique appeal, understanding how cut affects color perception and staying informed about current market trends will help consumers make confident decisions. As lab-grown diamonds continue gaining market share, their color characteristics and value proposition ensure they will remain an important and growing segment of the jewelry industry.