Diamond clarity refers to the presence of internal inclusions or external blemishes that affect the appearance of a diamond. Though lab-grown diamonds are created in controlled environments, they still develop various imperfections similar to their natural counterparts but with some key differences in their formation and characteristics.

What Are Inclusions and Blemishes?

Inclusions are internal imperfections that occur during the diamond’s formation process. In lab-grown diamonds, these develop as the crystal structure forms during the growth process. These can include:

• Pinpoints: Tiny crystal inclusions that appear as small dots within the diamond
• Clouds: Groups of pinpoints clustered together, creating a hazy or cloudy effect
• Feathers: Small fractures within the diamond that can resemble feathers
• Needles: Long, thin crystal inclusions

Blemishes are external imperfections on the diamond’s surface, which might include:

• Polish marks: Lines created during the polishing process
• Scratches: Surface marks from handling or contact with other materials
• Chips: Small breaks on the diamond’s edge or facet junctions
• Cavities: Surface indentations on the diamond

How Inclusions Form in Lab-Grown Diamonds

The formation of inclusions in lab-grown diamonds varies based on the growth method:

HPHT (High Pressure High Temperature) Diamonds

HPHT diamonds often contain metallic inclusions—remnants of the metallic flux (typically iron, nickel, or cobalt) used during the growth process. These appear as dark spots or metallic flecks within the diamond. Specific inclusions include:

• Metallic features: Pieces of undissolved flux that solidified as the diamond cooled
• Metallic needles: Long, thin inclusions that often align with the crystal growth pattern
• Dendritic remnants: Branch-like inclusions resembling trees or bushes, formed when molten flux becomes trapped by the growing crystal

In some cases, HPHT diamonds contain enough metallic remnants that they can be picked up with a magnet, a characteristic that’s used in identification.

CVD (Chemical Vapor Deposition) Diamonds

CVD diamonds grow through a different process where carbon atoms from gas settle onto a diamond seed. Their common inclusions include:

• Comet-like remnants: Carbon inclusions that appear comet-shaped, forming when crystal growth continues around dark inclusions
• Planar clouds: Groups of small growth remnants that occur on a single geometric plane due to interruptions in the crystal growth
• Internal graining: Also called stria, these are reflective lines or angles caused by stops and starts in the vertical CVD crystal growth
• Black graphite spots: Sometimes form around the diamond seed as it grows

Impact on Clarity Grade

The clarity grade of a lab-grown diamond is determined by five main factors:

• Size: Larger inclusions have a greater impact on clarity grade
• Number: The quantity of inclusions affects the overall clarity
• Position: Centrally located inclusions are more noticeable than those near the girdle
• Nature: Whether imperfections are internal or external (external blemishes can be more visible)
• Relief: How visible the inclusion is against the diamond (dark inclusions stand out more)

Lab-grown diamonds generally receive higher clarity grades than natural diamonds because they form under controlled conditions with fewer disruptions. However, they can still contain various inclusions depending on the specific growth conditions and quality control measures implemented.

How Clarity Affects Lab-Grown Diamonds

The GIA Clarity Grading Scale

The GIA (Gemological Institute of America) clarity grading scale is universally applied to both natural and lab-grown diamonds. The scale consists of 11 grades, evaluated under 10x magnification:

• Flawless (FL): No inclusions or blemishes visible under 10x magnification
• Internally Flawless (IF): No inclusions, but may have minor surface blemishes
• Very, Very Slightly Included (VVS1, VVS2): Inclusions so slight they are difficult for a skilled grader to see
• Very Slightly Included (VS1, VS2): Inclusions are observed with effort but can be characterized as minor
• Slightly Included (SI1, SI2): Inclusions are noticeable
• Included (I1, I2, I3): Inclusions are obvious and may affect transparency and brilliance

Most lab-grown diamonds receive clarity grades in the VS (Very Slightly Included) range, though advances in technology have enabled the production of diamonds with even higher clarity grades.

Implications of Clarity on Value and Appearance

Clarity significantly impacts a lab-grown diamond’s value, second only to cut in determining price. For example, a 1-carat round lab-grown diamond with an SI1 clarity grade might cost substantially less than a similar stone with a VVS1 clarity grade, even if they have the same color rating.

However, many inclusions aren’t visible to the naked eye, particularly in lab-grown diamonds in the VS1-VS2 range. This creates an opportunity for consumers to maximize value by selecting diamonds that are “eye-clean” (no visible inclusions to the naked eye) but don’t command the premium price of flawless stones.

Clarity Considerations by Diamond Cut

Different diamond cuts reveal or mask inclusions to varying degrees:

• Round brilliants: The facet pattern of round brilliant cuts can help mask small inclusions due to the way light reflects, making them more forgiving of lower clarity grades
• Step cuts (emerald, asscher): These cuts have large, open tables and fewer facets, making inclusions more visible, so higher clarity grades are recommended
• Mixed cuts (oval, pear, marquise): These cuts fall somewhere in between, with their brilliance helping to hide some inclusions

Laboratory Certification

Major gemological laboratories now grade lab-grown diamonds using the same standards as natural diamonds:

• The GIA began grading lab-grown diamonds in 2007, though initially with approximated ranges rather than specific grades
• As of 2020, GIA now provides full grading reports for lab-grown diamonds identical to those for natural diamonds
• Other reputable labs include IGI (International Gemological Institute), which has been a popular choice for lab-grown diamond certification

These certifications provide consumers with confidence in the quality of their lab-grown diamonds and standardized information about clarity characteristics.

Clarity Considerations for Jewelry Design

How Clarity Affects Setting Choices

The clarity of a lab-grown diamond influences which settings will best showcase its beauty:

• Solitaire settings: These highlight a single diamond, making clarity more important since all attention is focused on the stone. VS1-VS2 clarity or higher is recommended for solitaire settings to ensure an eye-clean appearance.
• Halo settings: The small diamonds surrounding the center stone can help mask slight inclusions in the main diamond by adding sparkle and drawing attention away from any imperfections.
• Pavé and channel settings: These styles incorporate many small diamonds along the band. For these accent stones, clarity is less critical as their small size makes inclusions difficult to detect.

Balancing Clarity with Other Factors

When designing jewelry with lab-grown diamonds, jewelers must balance several considerations:

• Metal choice: Yellow gold can make lower color grade diamonds appear whiter while also disguising certain types of inclusions
• Diamond size: Larger diamonds make inclusions more visible, requiring higher clarity grades for eye-clean appearance
• Budget considerations: Prioritizing clarity vs. other factors (cut, color, carat) depends on personal preferences and budget limitations

Recommended Clarity Grades for Different Jewelry Types

Different jewelry pieces have varying clarity requirements:

• Engagement rings: For center stones, VS2 to SI1 typically provides the best value while ensuring an eye-clean appearance
• Stud earrings: SI1-SI2 clarity is often sufficient as earrings are viewed from a distance
• Pendants: VS2-SI1 is recommended as pendants are more visible than earrings but not scrutinized as closely as rings
• Tennis bracelets: SI clarity stones offer good value as the multiple stones create an overall sparkle effect that minimizes the visibility of individual inclusions

Market Growth and Consumer Preferences

The lab-grown diamond market has experienced significant growth, with industry projections suggesting that by 2025, lab-grown diamonds will constitute approximately 20% of all diamonds on the market. This growth is accompanied by evolving consumer preferences regarding clarity:

• Most consumers now prioritize the appearance of a diamond over technical grades, seeking “eye-clean” stones rather than paying premiums for higher clarity grades that don’t improve visible beauty
• There’s increasing awareness that lab-grown diamonds offer excellent clarity characteristics at more accessible price points
• By 2024, lab-grown diamonds represented approximately 53% of the diamond market, with particular strength in the engagement ring segment

Technological Advancements

Ongoing technological improvements in diamond growth processes have resulted in higher-quality lab-grown diamonds:

• Manufacturers are constantly refining their growth and treatment procedures to produce larger, higher-clarity diamonds
• Both CVD and HPHT methods have seen advancements that reduce the frequency and visibility of inclusions
• Since 2020, there has been a significant increase in submissions of high-clarity grade diamonds to GIA, likely reflecting these technological improvements

Consumer Knowledge and Expectations

Today’s consumers are more educated about diamond clarity and have specific expectations for lab-grown diamonds:

• Many buyers specifically seek diamonds in the VS1-VS2 clarity range, recognizing these grades offer excellent value while ensuring no visible inclusions
• Consumers increasingly understand that inclusions are natural features in both mined and lab-grown diamonds, not flaws
• There’s growing appreciation for the unique inclusion patterns that can help identify a diamond’s origin (CVD vs. HPHT growth processes)
• The price advantage of lab-grown diamonds allows consumers to prioritize clarity without compromising on size or other factors

Emerging Retail Trends

Retailers have adapted to changing consumer preferences regarding lab-grown diamond clarity:

• Many jewelers now showcase magnified images of diamonds online, allowing consumers to inspect clarity characteristics before purchase
• There’s increased transparency about clarity features, with detailed descriptions of any inclusions
• Some retailers are creating clarity-enhanced lab-grown diamonds using laser drilling or fracture filling for entry-level price points
• Custom jewelry designs increasingly incorporate lab-grown diamonds with clarity characteristics specifically chosen to complement the design

Making Informed Clarity Choices

Understanding diamond clarity is essential when purchasing lab-grown diamonds. While these diamonds generally have fewer inclusions than natural diamonds due to their controlled growth environment, clarity remains an important factor affecting both appearance and value.

When selecting a lab-grown diamond, consider these clarity guidelines:

• Focus on eye-cleanliness: Rather than paying for flawless clarity that’s only visible under magnification, prioritize diamonds that appear clean to the naked eye (typically VS2-SI1 for most diamond shapes).
• Consider the setting: The choice of setting can help minimize the appearance of inclusions. Halo settings, for instance, can mask slight imperfections in the center stone.
• Diamond shape matters: Step cuts like emerald and asscher reveal more inclusions, requiring higher clarity grades, while brilliant cuts like round and oval are more forgiving of lower clarity grades.
• Certification is key: Always purchase lab-grown diamonds with certification from reputable laboratories like GIA or IGI to ensure accuracy in clarity grading.
• Balance with other factors: Clarity should be balanced with other characteristics like cut (which affects brilliance and can mask inclusions), color, and carat weight to achieve the desired appearance within budget.

The continuing advancements in lab-grown diamond technology mean that consumers now have access to higher-clarity diamonds at more accessible price points, making it easier than ever to find a beautiful, eye-clean lab-grown diamond that meets both aesthetic desires and budget requirements.

By understanding the unique characteristics of inclusions in lab-grown diamonds and how clarity affects overall appearance, consumers can make informed decisions that maximize value while ensuring lasting beauty in their diamond jewelry.